Behind the glow: The real benefits of red light therapy

Red light therapy (RLT; LED therapy) isn’t just another beauty trend. It’s become a mainstay in anti-aging routines. 

🎭 From wrinkle-fight face masks to magic wands and sci-fi LED beds, red light devices can be a low-maintenance way to strengthen your skin and boost it’s vitality over time.

But do at-home RLT devices work? Here is what you need to know to get the most skin benefits.

What does red light therapy do?

RLT works through a process called photobiomodulation–this just means using light to alter biology, says Stanford’s Zakia Rahman, MD.

Red light targets the mitochondria (the energy centers of our cells), helping them to produce more ATP (fuel) to ‘clean’ skin cells 🧼 — in other words, to rejuvenate cells — says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Rachel Nazarian in an interview with CBS Morning Plus.

It also boosts collagen and elastin production. But why is collagen important for aging well?

• Collagen adds structure, strength, and elasticity, Cleveland Clinic writes. As we age, collagen production slows down, leading to sagging and wrinkles.

• Mayo Clinic says 30% of the body is collagen, an essential part of tissues, bones, tendons, and organs. Supporting collagen production is one of the most effective ways to slow visible aging.

🩸 Red light also boosts blood flow to deliver more oxygen and nutrients to nourish skin cells and reduces oxidative stress and inflammation, translating to aging prevention at the cellular level.

Science-backed beauty benefits 

Science backs some of it’s bold beauty claims.

UCLA Health reports improvements in dark spots, wrinkles, loose skin…classic signs of aging. In one 8-week study using the FDA-approved Shark Beauty CryoGlow LED mask, participants saw fewer fine lines, acne, skin redness, and roughness, and more radiance and firmness, WIRED writes.

This 2023 study using the Skin Light Dior x Lucibel mask found that three months use led to a 47.7% increase in skin density (a key marker of aging), 24% improvement in skin firmness, and an approximate 38% reduction in the appearance of crow’s feet wrinkles.

Other benefits:

• Psoriasis and autoimmune conditions: It can reduce inflammatory symptoms.

• Hair thinning and hair loss: Red light helps with hair growth and repair, and supports follicular density and thickness.

• Acne: Red light can reduce oxidative stress, and some masks also include bacteria-fighting blue light.

• Skin cancer: Surprisingly, one of it’s earliest clinical uses was for skin cancer, says Nour Kibbi, MD, clinical assistant professor of dermatology, in Stanford.

To see benefits, consistency is key—but NOT necessarily daily use.

Based on the 2023 study, experts suggest spacing out red light sessions by 72 hours. It takes time for skin cells to respond.

• Similarly, the Cleveland Clinic says it takes one to three sessions per week over the course of a few weeks—and sometimes months—to see improvements.

Worth mentioning is the fact that most health claims for RLT are also based on research on medical-grade devices—not at-home devices—says plastic surgeon Dr. Prem Tripathi tells The Guardian.

“Unless a manufacturer has done independent clinical trials of a product, its claims may be based on the effects of different, stronger tools,” she adds.

Choosing the right at-home device

At-home devices are probably not as effective as clinical ones, but they still have the potential to boost skin health, texture and radiance.

What to look for:

Wavelength: “For effective skin rejuvenation, the ideal red light wavelength falls between 600 to 700 nm,” says Dr. Michael Bassiri-Therani, a double-board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon. 660 nm is considered most beneficial.

Most devices deliver wavelengths that range between 620 to 750 nm (visible light spectrum).

Light mode: Most devices offer continuous or pulsed red light (delivered in short bursts). Pulsed light might have a slight edge, as it syncs with brain activity, prevents skin overheating, but both offer similar effects.

Light type: Shorter wavelengths are more potent and effective at killing skin cells; longer wavelengths stimulate proteins that build collagen, Stanford writes.

〰️Try to find a device that offers and range of wavelengths for various benefits.

Session length: Experts recommend no more than 30 minutes a day, says Dr. John Smith in a podcast with University of Utah. In various studies, 10- to 20-minute sessions was enough.

Tripathi says more time may be needed if using lower wavelengths.

Bulb count: More bulbs means more even distribution, Tripathi says. This leads to better results.

Consult with a dermatologist or provider before starting RLT. It’s consistently considered safe, but mild side effects like dryness, stinging, redness, burning, and swelling could occur. Also be sure to wear sunscreen to prevent UV damage.

💡 DERM BOOST! Talk to your derm about pairing RLT with other therapies that maximize anti-aging results—like microneedling or chemical peels, according to UCLA Health.

Is RLT right for you?

This is a non-invasive tool that works for most skin types and offers the potential to slow visible signs of aging by brightening, smoothing, and strengthening skin at the cellular level.

Authors of a 2014 study call it a “mild and pleasant light-only skin rejuvenation,” while Tripathi calls it “the cherry on top 🍒” of a good skincare regimen, which is irreplaceable.

As there are still a limited number studies on the aging benefits, we need more studies to understand the full scope of it’s potential.

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5 at-home devices to try in 2025:

These devices are vetted by Rory Evans a beauty reporter of 25 years at The New York Times, and former cosmetic chemist/beauty analyst Chiara Butler in Good Housekeeping.

LightStim for Wrinkles ($249 from Amazon): includes 72 LEDs across four wavelengths. Targets the face and body and addresses numerous clinical concerns. 

Shark CryoGlow LED Face mask ($349 from Amazon): 480 LEDS with red (630 nm), blue (415 nm), and infrared (830 nm) light. Includes cooling eye pads and an anti-aging setting, and it keeps track of sessions, New York Times reports.

Omnilux Men ($395 from Omnilux): 1,072 nm near-infrared light penetrates deeply into thick skin, ideal for male users. Includes 633 nm and 830 nm red light, New York Times writes.

Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare SpectraLite FaceWare Pro ($455 from Amazon): FDA-cleared device with 162 red and blue LEDs that supports acne reduction and collagen production. Dermatologist-recommended. 

CurrentBody LED Light Therapy Face Mask ($469.99): This clinical trial-backed product contains 236 LEDs shown to increase plumpness by 57% and reduce wrinkles by 30%.

Poll

Until next time,

Erin

_{The information provided about wellness and health is for general informational and educational purposes only. We are not licensed medical professionals, and the content here should not be considered medical advice. Talk to a doctor before trying any of these suggestions.}

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