Peptides and your skin: What the research really says

Meanwhile, celebrities swear by them, and biotech startups with skincare brands are attracting $20 million investments, pushing peptides as the next frontier of skin longevity.

The hope is simple. Target the real cause of skin aging, and help skin regenerate faster. 🔬💛

Peptides are indeed dermatologist-backed…or at the very least, “They’re not a scam,” says Dr. Adam Friedman, a professor and chair of dermatology at George Washington University, in The New York Times. 

But without substantial clinical evidence, we want to know: Are peptides actually a main course, or just another side dish?

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Because skin is composed of proteins like collagen, elastin, and keratin, and peptides are the building blocks of these proteins, they play an important role in maintaining the skin's structure. 🧱

A systematic review published in Biomolecules, one of the largest reviews to date, found that certain peptides can encourage healthier cell turnover and reduce inflammatory markers tied to aging. 🌿

Longevity-focused start-ups like OneSkin, the benefactor of the $20 million investment, claim peptides are a powerful anti-aging ingredient because they target senescent cells. These are aging cells that build up in skin tissue and cause inflammation, said to contribute to wrinkles, aging, and even skin cancer risk. 

Some experts believe that targeting this aging mechanism can restore youthful skin function. Younger-looking skin is hydrated, flexible, elastic, smooth, and firm. 💧🌸

Different peptides can tackle different skin concerns and causes of aging. Here’s how they work, according to insights from Biomolecules and Prevention.

Due to their delicate chemical structure, our skin might not easily absorb them, he explains.

A 2022 review of anti-wrinkle peptides supports this, and researchers discovered that most are not able to penetrate the deeper layers of skin (which is where true changes to skin appearance happen!).

Scientists are exploring workarounds, which are still being developed:

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There is evidence that peptides promote younger-looking skin, but some peptides have more research than others.

🔵 GHK-Cu (copper tripeptide-1): Has strong evidence that it improves skin firmness, elasticity, and regeneration, writes Biomolecules. It may neutralize free radicals, a major driver of ‘inflammaging’ (age-related inflammation), and support wound healing, while boosting thickness and reducing wrinkles.

🐦‍⬛ Matrixyl (palmitoyl peptides): A 2016 controlled clinical trial showed a 14% reduction in crow’s feet and 27% improvement in skin density after four weeks of using a face cream that contains palmitoyl. In effect, it had “some degree of anti-aging effects,” the authors write. 

🗑️ Hexapeptide-1: A 2025 review found that Hexapeptide-1, a yeast-derived peptide, activates our cells’ internal cleanup system (autophagy). This helps cells combat cellular damage that may be caused by stress, aging, senescence, and other environmental factors.

🧬 OS-01(?): In 2020, OneSkin launched its proprietary peptide-based skincare formula. Conducting self-funded research, their peptide was shown to reduce cellular senescence and the age of DNA in cells. However, the study was not independently replicated.

In other words, the results are promising. But they are not proof.

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Dermatologists unanimously agree that peptides can be a useful, supportive, and beneficial part of your skincare routine. But they should not be the backbone of a routine. 

The real “hero ingredients” haven’t changed. They’re simple, more affordable, and the evidence stacks up.

As Rogers says: “Peptides are helpful, not heroic.”

Dermatologists agree that peptides are generally safe to add to your routine! They support collagen, calm inflammation, and reduce wrinkles and other visible signs of aging.

And early evidence does suggest they can reduce cellular senescence and slow down skin aging, but they are not foolproof. More human research is needed to confirm their effectiveness in addressing the root causes of skin aging. 

Most importantly, the backbone of your routine should be protection-first. ☀️🧴

Catch last week’s podcast with Jordan Glenn, Head of Science at Suppco, where we break down the three principles of using supplements to support longevity.
Watch here.

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